Finally, after much delay, the final installment of my trip to Florida in June. Finally the real meat of the trip, the reason we had flown across the country and were still hopeful despite the consistently poor weather we’d had throughout the week. Treasure Diving. That’s right, treasure diving. We were in Key West to get a once in a lifetime chance to search for sunken treasure on the ocean floor.
History side note: The treasure we were looking for is from the wreck of the Atocha, a Spanish galleon that sank in 1622 leaving tons of the gold, silver coins, emeralds, jewelry, pottery and so much more on the bottom of the ocean floor. After more than 15 years of searching, in 1985 Mel Fisher and his team stumbled upon the “mother lode” bringing up the richest treasure find in the world since the discovery of King Tut’s tomb in 1930. Since then they have continued working the area, bringing up more treasure and different artifacts each year.
Earlier in the week we got a sneak peek behinds the scenes at the conservation room above the Mel Fisher Museum, where all the magic of restoration happens. We learned some important details that would be helpful during our hunt beneath the sea, for example, most metals look different after spending years on the bottom of the ocean. Silver turns black, and iron becomes encrusted to the point that you wouldn’t know it’s iron except for the pinging of the metal detector.
One exception is gold. Gold stays nice and sparkly and does not attract encrustations. It also does not show up on most metal detectors (although we were told that the ones they are using are so sensitive that they do pick up gold.)
Now as you know from reading my two previous posts, we happened to cross paths with the beginnings of a tropical storm while in Key West. Our first day of diving was rescheduled from the nice coral reefs to the community college lagoon, we barely were able to get out to the Vandenberg, and now our days on the Atocha wreck were in jeopardy. We were saddened to find out Wednesday night, that the winds were holding strong. The crew of the Magruder (the treasure salvaging ship) were hiding out in the safety of the Marquesas, and were not going to be able to get out and set up the next day. Still hopeful, we clung to our new motto, modeled off of Mel Fisher’s classic line, “Today’s the day”, and told each other, it would be okay, “tomorrow’s the day!” Luckily it was! We were able to pack up and head out late Friday morning, despite the still high seas.
After the ride out on the small speed boat “Lucky Dog” we got to the Magruder to hear annoyed and angry voices coming over the radio. The ship had gotten back to the coordinates in the morning and began mooring off only to find that sometime since they were last at the site another large ship (probably a coast guard cutter), had come through and severed the mooring line from one of the anchors.
Quick side note: the Margruder uses three mooring points, one of the bow and two off the stern, so that it stays exactly in one place. This allows the mailboxes to work and they can precisely adjust their searching pattern by letting out and pulling in a certain amount of line on each of the anchors, slowly moving the ship around the ocean. Each anchor weighed several tons!
The crew had spent the morning pulling out the gps coordinates, relocating the anchor, re-attaching the mooring line and tying off. It made it even more difficult that they had to do it in rough seas. The next step was another doozy. To get on the Magruder we had to transfer from the fiberglass speedboat, to the aluminum work boat, then leap up onto the Magruder. This can be dangerous in calm seas, and we were not in calm seas. We all made it safely, with the only catastrophe being that a cleat was pulled off the small boat as they tried to tie off to the Magruder. The crew transferred all of our gear and it was time to get ready for treasure hunting.
The first step was lowering the mailboxes and blowing the first hole. The mailboxes are these large pipes that lower off the back of the boat covering the props. The propellers are then turned on to full and the prop wash is sent gushing down into the ocean floor blowing all the layers of sand and sediment away leaving a 5-6′ hole down to the coral hard seabed. Once the current has cleared the area enough to be able to go down and start searching.
While we were waiting, we got to mingle with the crew and see some of the the artifacts they had found earlier in the week. As soon as the first hole was cleared, it was go time.
Treasure diving is not for the faint of heart. Luckily we started with a pretty calm current, but by the end of the day the current was RIPPING. To be successful you couldn’t spare any time. After giant striding into the ocean we just continued straight down, quickly looking for the line that directs you to the hole. The visibility was about 2ft at best, and the current is pulling you in the opposite direction. At the end of the dive it was the opposite. In order to not be swept away, and to be able to actually get out of the water, we removed our fins in the bottom of the hole (no current) then ascended hand over hand on the line to the ladder. The waves were pushing the boat side to side, so the ladder was plunging in and out of the water. Once you grabbed hold you had to hold on for dear life as you would be pulled out of the water then pushed back in until you were safe back up on the deck of the ship. It was rather exhilarating!
As I mentioned, visibility was pretty awesome. The big plus was that there was no current once down in the hole.Unfortunately my very old small canon camera that I had not used in about a year and half flooded after jumping off the boat. However my buddy Kendra had her’s and got some great pictures that really show what it was like down there.
Our job was to dig around in the “solution” holes, looking mostly for something shiny, like gold or for pottery and other artifacts that are not picked up by the metal detector. The whole time you’re down there searching thinking, what if there is something in this hole, then you move to the next and think, what if there is something in this hole, etc etc, so on and so forth.
It was a crazy day, and unfortunately it was cut a little short as the winds picked back up in the afternoon so we only got in four short treasure dives. Despite that we all had a blast, and while we didn’t come away with anything sparkly, we all found some pretty awesome shells, coral pieces, sand dollars and these awesome large sand-dollar like pieces that I learned are called Sea Biscuits. After the dives, we were able to look at the large map of the search area, and see the four holes we dug.